Visit my new blog

I´ve decided to split my blog in two. I will continue to post DIY projects and musings here, but (serious) pictures, taken on film of course, will be posted in my new blog "Silver Halides"

I now consider Caffenol to be a developer like any else. As such the new blog will focus more on the pictures, rather than the process.
Showing posts with label home made. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home made. Show all posts

Sunday, 9 February 2014

6x24 pinhole camera?

DIY it? Well yes, why not? Inspired by my success with the "I Adore" 6x17 made from a Cognac case, a Vermeer 6x17 curved film plane pinhole camera, and a by no means subtle hint from a friend who sent me a wine bottle case with a pinhole drawn on one side.

A wine bottle case then. This would be easier than the 6x17, eeh well. Maybe not. This is the kind which is hinged and has a half open front. Very tall though, so I thought maybe it had potential for something wider than 17cm. 24 maybe? But at the same time, shallow, maybe 85mm or so. So the focal length would not be that substantial, also limiting the image circle to much less than 240mm.

OK, how about a curved film plane? That might help a bit. But a little basic geometry calculations later, I found out that the circumference of a half circle with a radius of approx 85mm would be approx 267mm.  240mm film plane would require 163 degrees field of view. Hmm, not sure that the pin hole would cover that.

What if the film plane was curved, but not quite semi circular? OK, the edges would need to be farther away from the pinhole than the centre, but that would be the case with a flat film plane too. 85mm centre, and 105 at the edges would´t be that bad. And distortion may not be that noticeable. As to vignetting, there will necessarily be a bit, but without testing it, I would never know.  Ahh well, no guts no glory.

The case

The case

Lost the hinges, I needed the two halves to slide together. I then clad the inside of the top (to become the front), with 3mm ply. Drilled a rather large hole for the pin hole opening, to avoid vignetting (as the pinhole would be behind the front panel).

Testing out a film gate made of foam core
Foam core insert, top, film gate, and bottom

Test fitting the insert, good thing the leader is long


Used foam core to make an insert. The film guides at each end of the film gate are made out of threaded rod clad in heat shrink. The film is threaded underneath the guides so that it is kept flat against the gate. Spool holders are made of 5mm machine screws. The bottom set function as pins on which the film spool can rotate. The upper set are both winders. The screws have had their heads filed down to a flat spade shape and enter the spool for winding, they are also retractable to enable film loading


Insert, spool holders and advance knobs

Insert in camera, can be removed

Innards painted a flat black. 0.500mm pinhole. Guillotine shutter made of cardboard, a foot fashioned after the quick release plate for my tripod. A couple of latches to keep it closed and finished it is.

Nothing to it!

Ready for some film, top view

Front and back, film numbering reminder
Mounted on a tripod, ready for work

Test shot no1

Test shot no2
Quite happy with the results, it sure is wide. And the vignetting is certainly visible, but less so than I feared. Anyhow, pin hole images with no vignetting doesn't seem right.


EDIT, 12.02.2014: Added a diagram showing how the film holder and spooling mechanism is put together:


EDIT: 01.03.2018: Some more images taken with camera








Thursday, 5 September 2013

My DUO

Late last year I saw some pictures of a prototype Polaroid TLR on flickr member "kkado" stream. I amongst others thought that the design had such promise, a Kickstart project would not be out of place. Some months later and our dreams were heard, Kevin Kadooka, a.k.a kkado, opened this project on Kickstarter. I was quick to add my pledge, indeed I was backer no.1

The camera is based on a Mamiya-Sekor C-series 105mm f3.5 lens pair from a Mamiyaflex/C2/C3/C22/C33/C220/C330 camera. And a CB-100/101/103 type back. Both of which the customers had to source themselves. The lenses are capable of covering a film area much larger than the 6x6 on the Mamiyas. They would however need removing from the mounting plate to accommodate a larger distance between the two, needed on the DUO. The DUO also requires the backs to have the mounting claws removed in order to be mounted on a DUO specific adapter. The adapter mounts on the DUO using magnets, and can be rotated 90 degrees for both portrait and landscape modes. Kevin also made available a back adapter for 120 roll film, which I have, but have not yet put together.

Kevin has been very professional, adding updates, opening a blog, putting out videos and establishing an own flickr group to aid us poor DIY'ers in assembling the kit.

Late June 2013 my DUO kit landed in Norway. Being away during the summer, the kit laid untouched until the end of August. I then went about building it. With the help of Kevin's instruction manuals, videos and blog posts I managed to put it together, and paint it, in a weekend.

The camera is big, no question about it. But it is light, only 1320 grams all included, back and film loaded. The viewfinder is big (97x97mm), but at least on mine a bit dim, especially around the corners (viewing lens vignettes at f3.5 I would surmise). I also have a hard time shielding the finder from light intrusions and reflections. I might have to invest in a large wide brimmed hat ;) But, I am still happy after having shot the first pack of film. It really is a different experience. Google Rolleiflex and Polaroid, and see how many have tried to combine the two, indeed some have. The DUO however is built for the task, and will cover the full 4.24x3.25" type 100 film with no problems. The added bonus is of course you can shoot 120 roll film up to 6x9 on it too.

This is what it looks like

My DUO, painted in Signal Red, with Mamiya-Sekor 105/3.5 black lenses and CB-103 back
From the first pack of film (FP3000B)

Double exposure (intentional), headstone and church stairs

Old Skoger Church, Skoger

Old Skoger Church, Skoger

For more information on the DUO:

http://duo-tlr.blogspot.no

http://www.flickr.com/groups/duo-tlr/

Friday, 7 June 2013

Polaview camera

I originally bought a bare bones Polaroid 600SE body with a Polaroid Super Wide in mind. Ideally with a 65mm Mamiya Sekor or similar. But I never really got round to it. The body has been lying about for the best part of a year now. Then one night I dreamt of a Polaroid View camera, and thought the 600SE body might be be put to the task.

Understand that the bare bones body is just that, nothing but the frame, no front panel, no side or bottom panels, the view and rangefinder top gone, no nothing really. This meant that I had an awful lot of filling and sanding to do. The frame is mass of cavities and holes. In fact filling these and covering with leatherette took more than half the time of the build.

The body is mounted upside down, so the face to which the finder originally was attached is now mated to the base of the camera. The base has a slot front to back in which a slider with the front standard is mounted. All this is pretty simple stuff. No rack and pinion or other geared focusing mechanisms, just slide the front standard in and out. Though I have made concessions for a focus lock.

I then made a front standard and frame for the lens board, to which the bellows also are attached. The lens boards need to be custom made, they are considerably smaller than Linhof boards. Also, since the sliding mechanism dictates the lowest point the frame can rest, the middle of which is incidentally 4mm above the centre line of the camera, the lens mount need to be offset 4mm below the middle of the board.

The bellows also took a while. My first ever effort really. The first prototype was light tight, but too thick and way too stiff. The second is better. Made of black synthetic material, two layers with stiffeners in between. Not entirely light tight at first, so in order too make it light tight I coated the insides with Plasti-dip, which did the trick, and importantly - without affecting the suppleness. I then fashioned up an aluminium frame for mating with the front of camera body, and a balsa frame for mating with the frame for the lens board. It has approx 180mm of pull, and compresses to less than 10mm. The body is more than 50mm i depth, and there is another 6-7mm to the film plane once the back is mounted. Add another 20mm for the front frame and lens board and you in theory could mount a 90mm on the front of it, and still focus to infinity. There would be no movements at all however. Indeed the bellows limit movements considerably up to 127mm. Movements will be much improved at 135 and 150mm, which can also be mounted and focus down to less than 1m.

As it is, with a 127mm at infinity, there is 10mm rise (on plane, without tilt), no fall (unless with tilt, in which case up to 5mm), 45 degr tilt upwards, 15 degr tilt downwards, 5mm lateral shift left and right, and 30 degr swing. Movements improve dramatically at nominal close focus for the lens. Lateral shift, fall (with tilt) and downwards tilt most significantly.

I have yet to fork out for a proper Mamiya focusing screen, ground glass, for the camera. So until I have the means, I will make do with a glass I ground and cut down to size to fit in a used pack film cassette. With the back open and the back of the cassette removed, this works - though not overly well.


The Polaroid 600SE fasteners will allow all sorts of backs. Polaroid 100 type of course, but also 120 up to 6x9, and even 4x5 (though not with full coverage)

It is quite compact without back and carrying handle. Less than 130mm x 135mm x 160mm. And very light. Used as little materials as possible, and as light as possible. Weighs 840 grammes net, 1450 with Polaroid back and Tominon lens in Copal press shutter.

All work has been done with hand tools, and a drill.

Polaview, with 127mm Tominon (drawn out way past nominal close focus)


FP100C, Tominon 127mm f4.7, focused at 0.7m


FP 100C, Tominon 127mm f4.7,  slight forward tilt


Friday, 19 April 2013

In time for the Worldwide Pinhole day?

Bad weather over the weekend tends to result in indoor projects of some sort. No backlog of film to develop or scan, so I had to find something else to do. What about a 4x5 Pinhole camera, might indeed be ready in time for Pinhole day on the 28th of April.

I used a well known recipe really, take a Bjurön plant pot from IKEA (same as for my other 4x5 DIY camera) and smack a 4x5 Graflok compatible back on it and you have the beginnings of a camera. Drill a hole in the other end and cover it with a piece of foil punctured by a pin, and there you have it. That would have taken but an hour or so. But I had to make things a bit more difficult for myself by adding an internal shutter, actuated by a release cable. In fact that took more than a few hours, indeed half the weekend. Worked fine indoors, but when I finally went out to take some test shots it failed. Which meant I had to use the dark slide as a shutter, giving questionable results. Needed to rethink the shutter construction some, and now it works.

Details:

  • Sinar 4x5 back, has the advantage of being very compact - and fits the Bjurön plant pot very nicely. 
  • 118mm focal length, 32mm 135/35mm film equivalent when shot on 4x5
  • First pin hole was 0.5mm (f236) - a bit on the big side.
  • Current pin hole is 0.4mm (f296)
4x5 Pinhole, shutter open
4x5 Pinhole. Cambo back. Shutter release cable enters body
Shutter as seen from the rear, slider with opening can be seen protruding on each side

First test shots on a DAYI 6x12 roll film back, awaiting delivery of some 4x5 film.

6x12 test shot, dark slide as shutter, 0.500mm pinhole

6x12 test shot, revised shutter and 0.400mm pinhole


Sunday, 4 November 2012

I adore the I Adore

Though it worked fine from the get go, I have been tinkering a bit with the 6x17 "I Adore" camera over the last few months. Small things, some cosmetic, some practical. Made the light seals more substantial. Added a level and modified the finder mask to allow vieiwing of the level whilst composing. Added a tripod mount. Checked and adjusted the lens flange to film plane and other minor changes.

Still have to find a solution to films of variable thickness. The pressure plate works well with heavy duty Kodak films, but less so with the delicate Fuji films. Having said that, the picture of the palace below is sharp all across the frame, and it was shot on Acros. Maybe I need to stop worrying and just shoot more.



I Adore, DIY 6x17

Norwegian Royal Castle, "I Adore" 6x17, Acros, Caffenol-C-M(RS)

Trees in winter, "I Adore" 6x17, Portra BW400, Caffenol-C-H(RSA)

Thursday, 6 September 2012

Kodak Tri-X (TX400 or 400TX) in Caffenol-C-H

I´ve recently developed two rolls of Tri-X. Both over expiry, one of the previous emulsion, and one of the current. Both worked out well.

Tri-X has always been Tri-X. But look at the designation on the box, and on the film rabate you´ll see that indeed they are different. Modern (post 2007) Tri-X is called 400TX. The former emulsion is called TX400 or just TX. Reputedly the newer emulsion is more fine grained and requires shorter development. Finer grain? Possibly, not that I would fret over big fat grain on the older version, if I was so lucky to find a cache. It´s still very good in Caffenol. I did however develop the two films (very) slightly differently.

Modern Tri-X, exposed at EI400, in Caffenol-C-H(RS) and 0.7g/l of Potassium Bromide (KBr). A small recap of the RS recipe bottom of post.

14 minutes and 30 seconds @ 20C/68F. 12 initial inversions, and 3 every top of the minute as usual, save the last at 14 minutes (i.e. stand from 13 minutes). Water stop, 1 minute. Normal fixing and washing. All at as close to 20C/68F as possible.

Modern Tri-X, box speed, Caffenol-C-H(RS), 14m30s @ 20C. DIY 6x17 Camera
Modern Tri-X, box speed, Caffenol-C-H(RS), 14m30s @ 20C. DIY 6x17 Camera
Click on the pictures, they are large and you will see just how good Tri-X can be. I really got lucky on these. Shot with my DIY 6x17

A prior attempt to expose a roll of Trix met with just about every problem in the book. Firstly the back on the Super 66 has developed a light leak. Luckily the frame shown below, and the first frame are exempt from damage, all the others are not.Secondly the first 5 frames of the film, all have a dark lower 1/4. Why is a mystery. Again this frame went clear.
Thirdly the self timer switch on the leaf shuttered lens got engaged without me noticing. Once I thought I had the shot in the bag (the mirror swinging up makes a loud kaaawhuump) and I started to walk away I heard the dreadful sound of the timer clockwork. I rushed back and reframed blind (the mirror was still up of course, obscuring the view, so why am I looking into the viewfinder?). And better framing than this is difficult even with finder. Missed the focus by a foot though. So now my reflection is more in focus than I had hoped. Ah well, that´s Sod´s law I suppose.
But back to business. This is the older emulsion, and yes there is slightly more grain, but still very good for a 400 speed film. Tonality is good. Due to the problems with exposing this film, the example frame is not the best.
Again, Caffenol-C-H(RS), this time with 1.2g/l KBr. All else equal.
Old Tri-X, box speed, Caffenol-C-H(RS), 14m30s @ 20C. Kowa Super 66 w/150mm f3.5

Caffenol-C-H vs C-H(RS)
In a 1 liter solution, each:
Sodium Carbonate, anhydrous 54g - 40g
Ascorbic acid 16g - 16g
Instant coffee 40g - 40g
Potassium Bromide (KBr) whatever, same for both. Between 0.6 and 1.5g/l depending on emulsion.

As you can see, only the amount of soda (sodium carbonate) is reduced. This lowers the pH, makes the developer less active. My experience says it´s still active enough. I haven´t really adapted my times much.
Benefits over regular C-H (same applies for C-M(RS) over C-M). I find grain is slightly less pronounced, and the tonal gradation is smoother, slightly less contrast maybe. 
With regards to the two Tri-X versions. Both are perfectly good films. I´ve already ordered a couple of bricks of modern Tri-X. ;)

Thursday, 30 August 2012

Lucy the hybrid 120 roll film adapter

I´ve been having way too much fun with the 600SE converted 110A. With two CB-103 pack film backs I am equipped for any Polaroid occasion. One loaded with FP100C, the other with FP100B or 3000B. I like it so much I thought I would convert a 120 rollfilm back to mount on the camera too. Who would have thought it, the 110A a system camera?

The two main parts needed is of course a roll film back. I chose the Graflex 23 6x9 for its size, the Mamiya type backs may be better, but they would obscure the viewfinder. And you also need the mounting plate for a 600SE. On one of my CB-103 backs I measured the distance from the mount face as it meets the camera, and the film plane (I inserted a used film pack) and measured the corresponding distance with the Graflex taped to the mounting plate. 3,2mm needed shaving off somewhere. It can´t be done on the Graflex, there isn´t enough material to grind off. So I took a Dremel to the mounting plate and after a couple of hours had ground out enough for the Graflex to fit.

I then made a skirt and glued it to the Graflex in order to mate it to the mount. Painted black and applied light sealant before screwing the two halves together.

The parts, some tools and a cup of Livanto Lungo. Skirt seen to lower right.
It fits around the edge of the Graflex, glued 3.2mm from the face it
forms a lip enabling mounting to the adapter plate

The 600SE mounting plate, or adapter. 3.2mm has been ground out
from the right edge and just beyond the left edge of the light opening. Width
as for the Graflex back, not much more than the breadth of the opening top to bottom.

Lip glued to the Graflex, allowing the back to fit into the depression
in the mounting plate. Then screwed to the mount. Flocked all round.

As seen from the mount face

Mounted on the 110A
Edit: It works! From the first roll through the back. Another first (will make a separate post regarding the film used), Portra BW400CN in Caffenol-C-H (RS)

Polaroid 110A/600SE, Portra BW400CN, Caffenol-C-H

Thursday, 5 May 2011

I Adore, the 6x17 camera

The "I Adore" front (notice the sliding back door cover protruding from the side handle)

When I built my first DIY camera I started the project with the intention of building a 6x17. Somewhere down the road I convinced myself that building a multi format camera would be a better idea. Sooner or later I had to rectify this misconception. Don´t get me wrong, I loved building the 4x5/6x12 P+S, but I have to try out 6x17 one way or the other. The idea resurfaced one evening when looking at two bottles of Cognac in their wooden cases. The cases looked to be a good starting points for a panoramic camera. There had be some rather peculiar design points. For one the back has to have to slide into place, meaning the pressure plate has to have to be detached from the back. I had to make a light box/mask that can be removed in order to gain access to the film spools (tight fit). I´ve scrounged parts from an old Genos Rapid, the film rollers, the film tensioners, the red film counter window, the winder knob and so on. I've used the same lens and helical (mounted on a Linhof lens board) as for the P+S. Getting the thing light tight was the main challenge, but hey - thats half the fun. Luckily an acquaintance of mine has sent me 10 rolls of expired film I can play around with for testing purposes.

The A E Dor ( I Adore ) case was the better of the two and formed the basis for the light tight chamber. I chamfered the front corners and crafted two hardwood handles for the side walls, one of which has a slit to accept the sliding rear door. I clad front, top and bottom in oak. I made a combined chambre noir and film gate, removable in order to gain access to the film spool holders (very tight fit), the pressure plate can't be attached to the rear door, so is also removable. Not much to it really.

Some more pictures:


And the first test picture. Forgive the scanning artifacts, I don't have a film holder for 6x17 negs, so it was scanned straight of the glass.

Sande bay, Norway, "I Adore" 6x17, HP5+, EI 400, Caffenol-C-H (RSA) 13min @ 20C, 4min presoak

Thursday, 28 October 2010

DIY grip for the Kowa Super 66

The Kowa grips are not that hard to get hold of. Neither are they expensive. There are two types, both have the same handle, but one is attached to the side mount only and uses a release cable, the other is attached both to the side and with a bracket along the the bottom of the camera and handle. The latter has a built in mechanism to trigger the shutter. Both have an accessory shoe for a flash or spirit level or other.

However, I thought I´d capitalise on my recent experience in the woodworking of my DIY 4x5/6x12 camera. I liked the ultimate handle´s design features and went about making a handle similar to it.

Design demands: A rectangular handle, but should still be ergonomic. Thumb activated shutter release. Attached both to side and bottom of camera. Accessory shoe. Relatively easy to mount and unmount. If possible should still be able to mount camera on tripod with grip attached.

I used a piece of pine, 20mm thick. A piece of sheet aluminium 1mm thick. A flash bracket. A 3/8" to 1/4" tripod adapter. Two 1/4" tripod screws, both male and female at the same time. A couple of smaller bolts. Mahogany stain, black satin paint, and clear gloss lacquer. Glue

And this is the result:
 
Side mount and release cable runs through grip, held fast by sculpted piece of black painted aluminium

3/4 view. You can see both side and bottom mount (an adapted flash bracket)
Side view. 6mm bolt runs through grip into tripod adapter. A 4mm bolt through bottom bracket into handle
where a nut has been seated and glued
A final addition will be a leather strap stretching from top to bottom towards to the outside, which I can slip my hand through. Makes for easier carrying, and I won´t drop the camera. Did it meet my design criteria? Yes, for the most part. My only gripe is it taking 2 or 3 minutes to attach and remove.