tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17326468982766793542024-03-12T17:56:52.980-07:00On your kitchen worktopIn the sense that most if not everything I´ll be discussing can be done at home in your kitchen, from DIY projects to film development with household chemicals.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger41125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-80709325523413555242015-05-07T01:06:00.001-07:002015-05-07T01:06:49.109-07:00Caffenol C-M and C-H (RS/RSA)<h2>
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Reinhold of Caffenol.Blogspot.com fame has been so kind as to post an article I wrote on how the RS and RSA versions of his recipes came about, and why I named them as I did.<br />
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<i>Hello coffee (ab)users, <o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US">I'm very
happy to present Eiriks report about his reduced soda/ascorbic-acid versions. </span>Have
a nice reading, and I recommend visiting his sites linked below. He's a great
photographer and a very nice guy. Thank you so much, Eirik.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><i>Happy
developings - Reinhold<br />
<br />
That's what Eirik wrote:<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><i>I promised
Reinhold a long time ago I would write an article on the (RS) and (RSA)
versions of his recipes.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<i>Like many others, when I started out with Caffenol I perused
the net for tips on where to start. I concluded pretty early on that these 8tsp
of this, a pinch of that, and a cup of other recipes, were not going to cut it
for me. Reinhold’s precise and predictable recipes however were exactly what I
was looking for. In addition to reading everything on his blog, I joined a
Caffenol group on Flickr, and a long ongoing thread on the Scandinavian APUG
forum to discuss and share experiences.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<i><br /></i>
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<i>I like to be accurate in my work, but I am also lazy. So I
soon tried out premixing Caffenol, instead of having to dissolve powders and mix
them up for every development. My approach was to dissolve the ingredients in
larger quantities and store them in light and airtight bottles. Then mix them,
one third each, when developing. For this to work, each solution had to be 3
times the prescribed strength. And it worked well. The ingredients did not go
off as quickly as some had thought. The coffee started to develop mold at 8-12
weeks, and the ascorbic acid oxidized gradually to be useless after 15-20
weeks. The soda kept forever, but was susceptible to crystalising in my storage
space in the basement in cold weather. Evidently this was due to the
combination of higher concentration and low temperature. In warm weather the
soda was stabile...................</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Continued here: <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.no/2015/05/the-rs-and-rsa-variants.html" target="_blank">Caffenol C-M and C-H (RS/RSA)</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-1592948204057849292014-02-09T10:05:00.000-08:002018-02-28T23:51:18.804-08:006x24 pinhole camera?<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
DIY it? Well yes, why not? Inspired by my success with the "I Adore" 6x17 made from a Cognac case, a Vermeer 6x17 curved film plane pinhole camera, and a by no means subtle hint from a friend who sent me a wine bottle case with a pinhole drawn on one side.</div>
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A wine bottle case then. This would be easier than the 6x17, eeh well. Maybe not. This is the kind which is hinged and has a half open front. Very tall though, so I thought maybe it had potential for something wider than 17cm. 24 maybe? But at the same time, shallow, maybe 85mm or so. So the focal length would not be that substantial, also limiting the image circle to much less than 240mm.<br />
<br />
OK, how about a curved film plane? That might help a bit. But a little basic geometry calculations later, I found out that the circumference of a half circle with a radius of approx 85mm would be approx 267mm. 240mm film plane would require 163 degrees field of view. Hmm, not sure that the pin hole would cover that.<br />
<br />
What if the film plane was curved, but not quite semi circular? OK, the edges would need to be farther away from the pinhole than the centre, but that would be the case with a flat film plane too. 85mm centre, and 105 at the edges would´t be that bad. And distortion may not be that noticeable. As to vignetting, there will necessarily be a bit, but without testing it, I would never know. Ahh well, no guts no glory.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtuBT3zNK1FfTWIDSsFSOxTjnHF0U-Kgfv6pz0Cc77HOdlVpN-EZVeYVlJhJ0xvQ8sEpIF-iuhR34ytOR1t36e7YUqPJeTKOygKLC2Bpu6MhTkGiLw6cf_78ul6vHdLeYsJEIab1R5oI/s1600/1654136_10201415115609031_1203344958_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtuBT3zNK1FfTWIDSsFSOxTjnHF0U-Kgfv6pz0Cc77HOdlVpN-EZVeYVlJhJ0xvQ8sEpIF-iuhR34ytOR1t36e7YUqPJeTKOygKLC2Bpu6MhTkGiLw6cf_78ul6vHdLeYsJEIab1R5oI/s1600/1654136_10201415115609031_1203344958_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The case</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO91KQ3cGQUN-hBWlwfYXZ8yJ-9J67S7uMjwVhJVBt5m54fXaSaLmHhrzCT5YDD5_WT4obVPDn5oRz4zMDYAVKVS4XB-erOCw6DMyPsngC-HLldG2RW5wZcry6Cydju0gLHaYgSYI7xbU/s1600/1555349_10201415115849037_625387034_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO91KQ3cGQUN-hBWlwfYXZ8yJ-9J67S7uMjwVhJVBt5m54fXaSaLmHhrzCT5YDD5_WT4obVPDn5oRz4zMDYAVKVS4XB-erOCw6DMyPsngC-HLldG2RW5wZcry6Cydju0gLHaYgSYI7xbU/s1600/1555349_10201415115849037_625387034_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The case</td></tr>
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Lost the hinges, I needed the two halves to slide together. I then clad the inside of the top (to become the front), with 3mm ply. Drilled a rather large hole for the pin hole opening, to avoid vignetting (as the pinhole would be behind the front panel).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirPdLxC5c1Avk-Xhglssou7GV-Bxzp2AkfdM86r7bGGM66TA23uJQgpYDnEIJujLT8wq3Cz09IbVmtaS-rSuVcPoR1mxsVppRCL4KEIJCrWjBmcxB52DrIYNL-rOESg9beQhK_2pnOQSs/s1600/1607122_10201415114569005_1215842288_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirPdLxC5c1Avk-Xhglssou7GV-Bxzp2AkfdM86r7bGGM66TA23uJQgpYDnEIJujLT8wq3Cz09IbVmtaS-rSuVcPoR1mxsVppRCL4KEIJCrWjBmcxB52DrIYNL-rOESg9beQhK_2pnOQSs/s1600/1607122_10201415114569005_1215842288_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Testing out a film gate made of foam core</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEVr4akywO6rHDqZYOIHTN_HT5YEypsFj6o9155BUu5ZcEyJi0tYlYCzvBBUbslzAsuW6Oel1Zl4ETelNYsmBHRyT2eurOMoLFRvk_JgNiOwsuxcqvffsd9BpiwyAPvYCqVMLq447kLg/s1600/1609849_10201437864697744_905474836_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEVr4akywO6rHDqZYOIHTN_HT5YEypsFj6o9155BUu5ZcEyJi0tYlYCzvBBUbslzAsuW6Oel1Zl4ETelNYsmBHRyT2eurOMoLFRvk_JgNiOwsuxcqvffsd9BpiwyAPvYCqVMLq447kLg/s1600/1609849_10201437864697744_905474836_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foam core insert, top, film gate, and bottom</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6j7hzakLmMvKlB3L-fWQQPzSaHa7n0DnQLTk0Hg6v6a_vRSPrLSw0VsIWy6v612QSVLas8_q7gH2ighdt2pRKTMQEDFn3lQJA53o1TOLzKZ-s3k5Bor3zpjAMT8E3XvNy0635MNxWAs/s1600/1623732_10201437878858098_1015429393_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6j7hzakLmMvKlB3L-fWQQPzSaHa7n0DnQLTk0Hg6v6a_vRSPrLSw0VsIWy6v612QSVLas8_q7gH2ighdt2pRKTMQEDFn3lQJA53o1TOLzKZ-s3k5Bor3zpjAMT8E3XvNy0635MNxWAs/s1600/1623732_10201437878858098_1015429393_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test fitting the insert, good thing the leader is long</td></tr>
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Used foam core to make an insert. The film guides at each end of the film gate are made out of threaded rod clad in heat shrink. The film is threaded underneath the guides so that it is kept flat against the gate. Spool holders are made of 5mm machine screws. The bottom set function as pins on which the film spool can rotate. The upper set are both winders. The screws have had their heads filed down to a flat spade shape and enter the spool for winding, they are also retractable to enable film loading</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHxh-_jvzJSt2piqZ6g4b3MO_LqJQBXWoH0dTFt5Qtdl3krKyVUklxndr2jKYdtvHoY0RcALZ4pfV_A9x6wMRRO61aycT7a-qYEVfEKl0IaRCpRN1sRXkTovhqldFiocAxL3Z1c9yQGGU/s1600/1901874_10201450656537532_176973741_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHxh-_jvzJSt2piqZ6g4b3MO_LqJQBXWoH0dTFt5Qtdl3krKyVUklxndr2jKYdtvHoY0RcALZ4pfV_A9x6wMRRO61aycT7a-qYEVfEKl0IaRCpRN1sRXkTovhqldFiocAxL3Z1c9yQGGU/s1600/1901874_10201450656537532_176973741_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insert, spool holders and advance knobs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Zatb3hyaipefIs9chuKi8i1yz0fiGphSAK8O52bjisrPkNf-k8U5_LjCmjZGAIl6NuAwv0TJx4b-sCrV0HWGEsQWULmscImJKOpOx7kPW1yb4sgj1qibQHWBUyON0gM3jgCv3qgto0g/s1600/1385077_10201450655057495_84401835_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Zatb3hyaipefIs9chuKi8i1yz0fiGphSAK8O52bjisrPkNf-k8U5_LjCmjZGAIl6NuAwv0TJx4b-sCrV0HWGEsQWULmscImJKOpOx7kPW1yb4sgj1qibQHWBUyON0gM3jgCv3qgto0g/s1600/1385077_10201450655057495_84401835_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insert in camera, can be removed</td></tr>
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Innards painted a flat black. 0.500mm pinhole. Guillotine shutter made of cardboard, a foot fashioned after the quick release plate for my tripod. A couple of latches to keep it closed and finished it is.</div>
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Nothing to it!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd1jeUwFxcF3TIOlLUoWSAImVaVnXSbj6LsbSyM258TX5UkmpJe0Vt1_Y62pJ9MBIe7oeAhxCBYEgHGd0Ceou3klmPHgaqMqAJLDgWrXQnApA4Yp1AvRlaPTEoJNKIe3BQVRwFrZCWOPc/s1600/1557713_10201450656177523_1412773386_na.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd1jeUwFxcF3TIOlLUoWSAImVaVnXSbj6LsbSyM258TX5UkmpJe0Vt1_Y62pJ9MBIe7oeAhxCBYEgHGd0Ceou3klmPHgaqMqAJLDgWrXQnApA4Yp1AvRlaPTEoJNKIe3BQVRwFrZCWOPc/s1600/1557713_10201450656177523_1412773386_na.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for some film, top view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxwoP01lKP9cQlvVwugwApDdlG-agH9UMmoAXCnl8aAECHMG1EGkLUA2M3ZrlwZLdHCS_QxRv_KvYzaKILH41-8nVGDGCviAGhUKmGZaelt5wuMM3JzUBKiCplTJAhf-PE6hDKd_9S-A/s1600/1606869_10201450655337502_136204451_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxwoP01lKP9cQlvVwugwApDdlG-agH9UMmoAXCnl8aAECHMG1EGkLUA2M3ZrlwZLdHCS_QxRv_KvYzaKILH41-8nVGDGCviAGhUKmGZaelt5wuMM3JzUBKiCplTJAhf-PE6hDKd_9S-A/s1600/1606869_10201450655337502_136204451_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front and back, film numbering reminder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5s_L30EpvAqWiy96b4yxdUJ0p5U6PGzVCyIVVzyJmodApbHzftAWaQkLHFpCOvFbSz_-4YFhLCrN_I_8aWF6AAKecA5ArazPmIfLADevfnk_smb5oMIySGMWKShgceJL05GVjn2e40I/s1600/Thomas-I_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5s_L30EpvAqWiy96b4yxdUJ0p5U6PGzVCyIVVzyJmodApbHzftAWaQkLHFpCOvFbSz_-4YFhLCrN_I_8aWF6AAKecA5ArazPmIfLADevfnk_smb5oMIySGMWKShgceJL05GVjn2e40I/s1600/Thomas-I_front.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mounted on a tripod, ready for work</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_ZABV8uw7IjSVLD3fOXybgRi9ArQgYYEvQ9nQ0hGfKYMWdL9DtbmU5BNO1nXISoZIPs0_gb8cLcCNePQ9hB8QI5Y_-NUFxjmwtUEjD72QViOaEubMGZET1QRfl65zLGOyNAe-z_CeR0/s1600/Power+substation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_ZABV8uw7IjSVLD3fOXybgRi9ArQgYYEvQ9nQ0hGfKYMWdL9DtbmU5BNO1nXISoZIPs0_gb8cLcCNePQ9hB8QI5Y_-NUFxjmwtUEjD72QViOaEubMGZET1QRfl65zLGOyNAe-z_CeR0/s1600/Power+substation.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test shot no1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHupSqHTALzeyfQY41-VfDqlj9ALzIYt2muzlexdaOR1OqbqNFJqQXDL3p-hydUtzOKApWdOycR5ljyjpm9cIz2azFD1PlCPsK_9kvg9zxcMnb1dSgmw6fvfhrJvXbdQcGat4pHEZZRLs/s1600/Frozen+river.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHupSqHTALzeyfQY41-VfDqlj9ALzIYt2muzlexdaOR1OqbqNFJqQXDL3p-hydUtzOKApWdOycR5ljyjpm9cIz2azFD1PlCPsK_9kvg9zxcMnb1dSgmw6fvfhrJvXbdQcGat4pHEZZRLs/s1600/Frozen+river.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test shot no2</td></tr>
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Quite happy with the results, it sure is wide. And the vignetting is certainly visible, but less so than I feared. Anyhow, pin hole images with no vignetting doesn't seem right.<br />
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EDIT, 12.02.2014: Added a diagram showing how the film holder and spooling mechanism is put together: <br />
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EDIT: 01.03.2018: Some more images taken with camera</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-48746665459051175412013-09-05T13:01:00.000-07:002013-09-05T13:06:04.812-07:00My DUOLate last year I saw some pictures of a prototype Polaroid TLR on flickr member "kkado" stream. I amongst others thought that the design had such promise, a Kickstart project would not be out of place. Some months later and our dreams were heard, Kevin Kadooka, a.k.a kkado, opened <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/71185779/duo-a-diy-twin-lens-reflex-camera-for-instant-film" target="_blank">this</a> project on Kickstarter. I was quick to add my pledge, indeed I was backer no.1<br />
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The camera is based on a Mamiya-Sekor C-series 105mm f3.5 lens pair from a Mamiyaflex/C2/C3/C22/C33/C220/C330 camera. And a CB-100/101/103 type back. Both of which the customers had to source themselves. The lenses are capable of covering a film area much larger than the 6x6 on the Mamiyas. They would however need removing from the mounting plate to accommodate a larger distance between the two, needed on the DUO. The DUO also requires the backs to have the mounting claws removed in order to be mounted on a DUO specific adapter. The adapter mounts on the DUO using magnets, and can be rotated 90 degrees for both portrait and landscape modes. Kevin also made available a back adapter for 120 roll film, which I have, but have not yet put together.<br />
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Kevin has been very professional, adding updates, opening a blog, putting out videos and establishing an own flickr group to aid us poor DIY'ers in assembling the kit.<br />
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Late June 2013 my DUO kit landed in Norway. Being away during the summer, the kit laid untouched until the end of August. I then went about building it. With the help of Kevin's instruction manuals, videos and blog posts I managed to put it together, and paint it, in a weekend.<br />
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The camera is big, no question about it. But it is light, only 1320 grams all included, back and film loaded. The viewfinder is big (97x97mm), but at least on mine a bit dim, especially around the corners (viewing lens vignettes at f3.5 I would surmise). I also have a hard time shielding the finder from light intrusions and reflections. I might have to invest in a large wide brimmed hat ;) But, I am still happy after having shot the first pack of film. It really is a different experience. Google Rolleiflex and Polaroid, and see how many have tried to combine the two, indeed some have. The DUO however is built for the task, and will cover the full 4.24x3.25" type 100 film with no problems. The added bonus is of course you can shoot 120 roll film up to 6x9 on it too.<br />
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This is what it looks like<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2gh-hCaRC6KOWKP5DFIkiLUAXq9k2JXNzq2gZgSLJso5T-PiEWONO6dH4_421cTVTE1VZWM5KNR1lTZR_5F4balmQHAjYKdHhYVhDO1aQFnK6gHRPrNBwj-sxHW0xAKwlsWxqMvV7j0/s1600/Duo-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2gh-hCaRC6KOWKP5DFIkiLUAXq9k2JXNzq2gZgSLJso5T-PiEWONO6dH4_421cTVTE1VZWM5KNR1lTZR_5F4balmQHAjYKdHhYVhDO1aQFnK6gHRPrNBwj-sxHW0xAKwlsWxqMvV7j0/s320/Duo-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My DUO, painted in Signal Red, with Mamiya-Sekor 105/3.5 black lenses and CB-103 back</td></tr>
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From the first pack of film (FP3000B)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk3y63CHDLBaDyAUo6SfvCYced0QWCnrtGC0_t8MQ4fs9NhIpYevtHosyOd0qZ2vdjMZXF-OttQ9j1CT1NF1jcguvpsSJfBdCpsPoU18sPfu1mCm9LNuLq0RxiACaE9Ws-Yn2_apRHXRw/s1600/FP3000B-20130820002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk3y63CHDLBaDyAUo6SfvCYced0QWCnrtGC0_t8MQ4fs9NhIpYevtHosyOd0qZ2vdjMZXF-OttQ9j1CT1NF1jcguvpsSJfBdCpsPoU18sPfu1mCm9LNuLq0RxiACaE9Ws-Yn2_apRHXRw/s320/FP3000B-20130820002.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Double exposure (intentional), headstone and church stairs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JGhKjBvNmXTDlcbd-JNsHGUnSszf1E9BqayuuivGAKA9MOFaRhyphenhyphenoV47Viupxfv42mt_ng5v0t-RRvsi84ik67Tmgo5NJdMxYmFuB2UsTUPG5yeGmPz6v-8PQmPNapcapPT3y6ZhLiq8/s1600/FP3000B-20130820004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JGhKjBvNmXTDlcbd-JNsHGUnSszf1E9BqayuuivGAKA9MOFaRhyphenhyphenoV47Viupxfv42mt_ng5v0t-RRvsi84ik67Tmgo5NJdMxYmFuB2UsTUPG5yeGmPz6v-8PQmPNapcapPT3y6ZhLiq8/s320/FP3000B-20130820004.jpg" width="253" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Skoger Church, Skoger</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsO0pikjM_L7LM2wz4v9_mQULuGPh9g8AoG5csJf5Oi4sOrgRSSS3nyFc6Sni1QPqYj54MIpSlWjUtt5ncPoYgKF_9rC2sVfEvNk70-FlMRO7ErrGbewO__ZfiuuzuSnBDGmkRTP-oGvg/s1600/FP3000B-20130820005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsO0pikjM_L7LM2wz4v9_mQULuGPh9g8AoG5csJf5Oi4sOrgRSSS3nyFc6Sni1QPqYj54MIpSlWjUtt5ncPoYgKF_9rC2sVfEvNk70-FlMRO7ErrGbewO__ZfiuuzuSnBDGmkRTP-oGvg/s320/FP3000B-20130820005.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Skoger Church, Skoger</td></tr>
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For more information on the DUO:<br />
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http://duo-tlr.blogspot.no<br />
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http://www.flickr.com/groups/duo-tlr/Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-47001338750374896912013-06-07T06:50:00.001-07:002013-06-07T06:50:12.451-07:00Polaview cameraI originally bought a bare bones Polaroid 600SE body with a Polaroid Super Wide in mind. Ideally with a 65mm Mamiya Sekor or similar. But I never really got round to it. The body has been lying about for the best part of a year now. Then one night I dreamt of a Polaroid View camera, and thought the 600SE body might be be put to the task.<br />
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Understand that the bare bones body is just that, nothing but the frame, no front panel, no side or bottom panels, the view and rangefinder top gone, no nothing really. This meant that I had an awful lot of filling and sanding to do. The frame is mass of cavities and holes. In fact filling these and covering with leatherette took more than half the time of the build.<br />
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The body is mounted upside down, so the face to which the finder originally was attached is now mated to the base of the camera. The base has a slot front to back in which a slider with the front standard is mounted. All this is pretty simple stuff. No rack and pinion or other geared focusing mechanisms, just slide the front standard in and out. Though I have made concessions for a focus lock.<br />
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I then made a front standard and frame for the lens board, to which the bellows also are attached. The lens boards need to be custom made, they are considerably smaller than Linhof boards. Also, since the sliding mechanism dictates the lowest point the frame can rest, the middle of which is incidentally 4mm above the centre line of the camera, the lens mount need to be offset 4mm below the middle of the board.<br />
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The bellows also took a while. My first ever effort really. The first prototype was light tight, but too thick and way too stiff. The second is better. Made of black synthetic material, two layers with stiffeners in between. Not entirely light tight at first, so in order too make it light tight I coated the insides with Plasti-dip, which did the trick, and importantly - without affecting the suppleness. I then fashioned up an aluminium frame for mating with the front of camera body, and a balsa frame for mating with the frame for the lens board. It has approx 180mm of pull, and compresses to less than 10mm. The body is more than 50mm i depth, and there is another 6-7mm to the film plane once the back is mounted. Add another 20mm for the front frame and lens board and you in theory could mount a 90mm on the front of it, and still focus to infinity. There would be no movements at all however. Indeed the bellows limit movements considerably up to 127mm. Movements will be much improved at 135 and 150mm, which can also be mounted and focus down to less than 1m.<br />
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As it is, with a 127mm at infinity, there is 10mm rise (on plane, without tilt), no fall (unless with tilt, in which case up to 5mm), 45 degr tilt upwards, 15 degr tilt downwards, 5mm lateral shift left and right, and 30 degr swing. Movements improve dramatically at nominal close focus for the lens. Lateral shift, fall (with tilt) and downwards tilt most significantly.<br />
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I have yet to fork out for a proper Mamiya focusing screen, ground glass, for the camera. So until I have the means, I will make do with a glass I ground and cut down to size to fit in a used pack film cassette. With the back open and the back of the cassette removed, this works - though not overly well.<br />
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The Polaroid 600SE fasteners will allow all sorts of backs. Polaroid 100 type of course, but also 120 up to 6x9, and even 4x5 (though not with full coverage)<br />
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It is quite compact without back and carrying handle. Less than 130mm x 135mm x 160mm. And very light. Used as little materials as possible, and as light as possible. Weighs 840 grammes net, 1450 with Polaroid back and Tominon lens in Copal press shutter.<br />
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All work has been done with hand tools, and a drill.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMoTTCUpt4Buiw0XzCsb5KoeXxP5mdL4ifxazk5ppte58QGElufYVxSv2oV3iSKyAFPnUbznaSNQ1J_brKM8-RdJO9EWqNKFL5-VjqoEQ_RXz4hkpgeoAGl8AU0d543Y-5xVQGn73BnpE/s1600/Polaview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMoTTCUpt4Buiw0XzCsb5KoeXxP5mdL4ifxazk5ppte58QGElufYVxSv2oV3iSKyAFPnUbznaSNQ1J_brKM8-RdJO9EWqNKFL5-VjqoEQ_RXz4hkpgeoAGl8AU0d543Y-5xVQGn73BnpE/s320/Polaview.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaview, with 127mm Tominon (drawn out way past nominal close focus)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-CI0tkA82d7-gZv9DOCyadbh1zYtra4Lxp7xDTTsbnbIMnQExKaBLrjIiOOKM8mbdhxDwmnrtBXjycTkuvDUBzukPxgpwY9T3XTQIuFdKJI-SbagzEWA7CS1B8BAw5pTjYMCOUPJiJo/s1600/FP100C-2013-05-02001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-CI0tkA82d7-gZv9DOCyadbh1zYtra4Lxp7xDTTsbnbIMnQExKaBLrjIiOOKM8mbdhxDwmnrtBXjycTkuvDUBzukPxgpwY9T3XTQIuFdKJI-SbagzEWA7CS1B8BAw5pTjYMCOUPJiJo/s320/FP100C-2013-05-02001.jpg" width="253" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FP100C, Tominon 127mm f4.7, focused at 0.7m</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FP 100C, Tominon 127mm f4.7, slight forward tilt</td></tr>
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<br /><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-30969209147314075522013-04-19T09:05:00.000-07:002013-04-21T05:23:54.146-07:00In time for the Worldwide Pinhole day?Bad weather over the weekend tends to result in indoor projects of some sort. No backlog of film to develop or scan, so I had to find something else to do. What about a 4x5 Pinhole camera, might indeed be ready in time for Pinhole day on the 28th of April.<br />
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I used a well known recipe really, take a Bjurön plant pot from IKEA (same as for my other 4x5 DIY camera) and smack a 4x5 Graflok compatible back on it and you have the beginnings of a camera. Drill a hole in the other end and cover it with a piece of foil punctured by a pin, and there you have it. That would have taken but an hour or so. But I had to make things a bit more difficult for myself by adding an internal shutter, actuated by a release cable. In fact that took more than a few hours, indeed half the weekend. Worked fine indoors, but when I finally went out to take some test shots it failed. Which meant I had to use the dark slide as a shutter, giving questionable results. Needed to rethink the shutter construction some, and now it works.<br />
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Details:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Sinar 4x5 back, has the advantage of being very compact - and fits the Bjurön plant pot very nicely. </li>
<li>118mm focal length, 32mm 135/35mm film equivalent when shot on 4x5</li>
<li>First pin hole was 0.5mm (f236) - a bit on the big side.</li>
<li>Current pin hole is 0.4mm (f296)</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8640655562_d36e2be405_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8640655562_d36e2be405_h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4x5 Pinhole, shutter open</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8640656794_1c46c98860_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8640656794_1c46c98860_h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4x5 Pinhole. Cambo back. Shutter release cable enters body</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Lzl5-1Gc5rmdWXtOXZ9lZJ5BHCYaKjur0xSG-Y3DODuWYlirk_UY5vN9qhQe0b98KRT1g47lQ8Q99eC0X2JLq4UKG_yYQ7ruLhmaZsLUzvmgTUZ8_lYiXl5y2Yjm4yAj2k14kWlINDY/s1600/bilde.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Lzl5-1Gc5rmdWXtOXZ9lZJ5BHCYaKjur0xSG-Y3DODuWYlirk_UY5vN9qhQe0b98KRT1g47lQ8Q99eC0X2JLq4UKG_yYQ7ruLhmaZsLUzvmgTUZ8_lYiXl5y2Yjm4yAj2k14kWlINDY/s320/bilde.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shutter as seen from the rear, slider with opening can be seen protruding on each side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
First test shots on a DAYI 6x12 roll film back, awaiting delivery of some 4x5 film.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8635600396_e677495599_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="169" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8635600396_e677495599_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">6x12 test shot, dark slide as shutter, 0.500mm pinhole</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDyGGLBoIkFV3H8VbioiILs_RaOrq_RyruqWK1D0tfkj7hmT-zwwSJXsxQDTnaUkNYjQ9eB-znbxg5ZExUgLZcYvo87wZSUzEGxafV1Fnv7fd_Bo0ufHa0Z13bCzS3Nw2irDBaTwVFv2g/s1600/GP3-R09-20130415005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDyGGLBoIkFV3H8VbioiILs_RaOrq_RyruqWK1D0tfkj7hmT-zwwSJXsxQDTnaUkNYjQ9eB-znbxg5ZExUgLZcYvo87wZSUzEGxafV1Fnv7fd_Bo0ufHa0Z13bCzS3Nw2irDBaTwVFv2g/s320/GP3-R09-20130415005.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">6x12 test shot, revised shutter and 0.400mm pinhole</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-30247776558771760992012-11-28T00:03:00.002-08:002012-11-29T08:46:19.216-08:00Caffenol CookbookI've been privileged to be part of a web publication collaboration on the subject of Caffenol.<br />
<br />
Though not entirely finished at the time of the posting, it is not far from completion. Please note that it is in Flash format at the moment. Other more mobile/iPhone/iPad friendly formats will be available later.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RoyiAJ792dKqWgTufwxpBMMJqo0dYv7Ztr4eAU1PXo_mTN1jfEl4TqU8e02zk-rM8puyzipDNFfTtqr1u2Dd12Mb_5al2Ab4eKigiSUDMW1TWuADnRij0o5c_uNrw3BMHG1jermlpHs/s1600/cover-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RoyiAJ792dKqWgTufwxpBMMJqo0dYv7Ztr4eAU1PXo_mTN1jfEl4TqU8e02zk-rM8puyzipDNFfTtqr1u2Dd12Mb_5al2Ab4eKigiSUDMW1TWuADnRij0o5c_uNrw3BMHG1jermlpHs/s320/cover-1.jpeg" width="228" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.caffenol-cookbook.com/" target="_blank">The Caffenol Cookbook</a> </b>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-9451319430796971232012-11-04T23:46:00.003-08:002013-01-31T08:32:01.013-08:00I adore the I AdoreThough it worked fine from the get go, I have been tinkering a bit with the 6x17 "I Adore" camera over the last few months. Small things, some cosmetic, some practical. Made the light seals more substantial. Added a level and modified the finder mask to allow vieiwing of the level whilst composing. Added a tripod mount. Checked and adjusted the lens flange to film plane and other minor changes.<br />
<br />
Still have to find a solution to films of variable thickness. The pressure plate works well with heavy duty Kodak films, but less so with the delicate Fuji films. Having said that, the picture of the palace below is sharp all across the frame, and it was shot on Acros. Maybe I need to stop worrying and just shoot more.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/8155320651_1bf4332fba_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/8155320651_1bf4332fba_h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I Adore, DIY 6x17</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8136478034_6049cd8d21_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="88" rea="true" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8136478034_6049cd8d21_h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Norwegian Royal Castle, "I Adore" 6x17, Acros, Caffenol-C-M(RS)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8431261488_d92cefa1fb_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="129" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8431261488_d92cefa1fb_h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trees in winter, "I Adore" 6x17, Portra BW400, Caffenol-C-H(RSA)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-48066501243511285112012-10-15T13:28:00.000-07:002012-10-15T13:32:35.573-07:00Focusing offAfter swapping to the Ektar I collimated the lens yet again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/7980730488_5d4a2ed99d_h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/7980730488_5d4a2ed99d_h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now with Kodak Ektar 127/f4.7 in Synchro-Compur shutter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The shutters are not the same, and even if they were (the same thickness for instance), the two lenses would have different film to flange distances anyhow. But it would seem I got it wrong. Didn´t show up too distinctly on 400 speed films as the aperture tended to be f8 or smaller. But on 100 ASA film and low autumn light and big apertures there was a visible back focus on all images.<br />
<br />
Another go then. Ended up moving the lens forward just over 1mm.<br />
<br />
<br />
And performed the following test.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8086042941_ad8f819744_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8086042941_ad8f819744_k.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you tell where I focused?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The back of the Photography Encyclopedia is in plane with the bottommost Asterix volume, The Lord of the Rings with the 5th volume, the outer two volume 10 and 13 respectively.<br />
<br />
More background data:<br />
The volumes are tiered 10mm in from the one below, 130mm in total bottom to top.<br />
<br />
Shot a f4.7, distance 91cm from front of lens, 107cm from film plane (approx). DoF approx 58.3mm, 28.4mm in front of subject distance, 29,9mm behind. Which should mean that the same number of volumes are in focus above and below the one IN focus.<br />
<br />
A bit dark (my two kids got bored of holding the dark background up - made do with the one shot), but can you guess which Asterix volume I focused on, and did I get it right?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-49950777728634962612012-09-22T05:22:00.003-07:002012-09-22T05:29:16.980-07:00A Kickstarter project worth supportingHi<br />
<br />
Thought I would let you know of a project that I hope will get the funding needed to go full steam ahead. Grabriel M. Aguirre a gifted photographer, known to many at RangeFinderForum (RFF) as Gabriel M.A, has a novel idea to portraying Parisian women and Paris itself, both at the same time.<br />
<br />
If interested take a look at his Kickstarter page. Place a pledge even.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/gabrielma/vitruvian-woman-in-paris-depliage-du-soi" target="_blank">http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/gabrielma/vitruvian-woman-in-paris-depliage-du-soi </a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-41600711280343929732012-09-06T13:14:00.005-07:002012-09-06T13:15:37.303-07:00Kodak Tri-X (TX400 or 400TX) in Caffenol-C-HI´ve recently developed two rolls of Tri-X. Both over expiry, one of the previous emulsion, and one of the current. Both worked out well.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Tri-X has always been Tri-X. But look at the designation on the box, and on the film rabate you´ll see that indeed they are different. Modern (post 2007) Tri-X is called 400TX. The former emulsion is called TX400 or just TX. Reputedly the newer emulsion is more fine grained and requires shorter development. Finer grain? Possibly, not that I would fret over big fat grain on the older version, if I was so lucky to find a cache. It´s still very good in Caffenol. I did however develop the two films (very) slightly differently.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Modern Tri-X, exposed at EI400, in Caffenol-C-H(RS) and 0.7g/l of Potassium Bromide (KBr). A small recap of the RS recipe bottom of post.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
14 minutes and 30 seconds @ 20C/68F. 12 initial inversions, and 3 every top of the minute as usual, save the last at 14 minutes (i.e. stand from 13 minutes). Water stop, 1 minute. Normal fixing and washing. All at as close to 20C/68F as possible.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8036/7908507778_61d4f7adc9_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="113" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8036/7908507778_61d4f7adc9_k.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modern Tri-X, box speed, Caffenol-C-H(RS), 14m30s @ 20C. DIY 6x17 Camera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8316/7908241386_1e29713014_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="110" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8316/7908241386_1e29713014_k.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modern Tri-X, box speed, Caffenol-C-H(RS), 14m30s @ 20C. DIY 6x17 Camera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Click on the pictures, they are large and you will see just how good Tri-X can be. I really got lucky on these. Shot with my <a href="http://on-your-kitchen-worktop.blogspot.no/search/label/6x17" target="_blank">DIY 6x17</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
A prior a<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">ttempt</span> to expose a roll of Trix met with just about every problem in the book.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px;">Firstly the back on the Super 66 has developed a light leak. Luckily the frame shown below, and the first frame are exempt from damage, all the others are not.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px;">Secondly the first 5 frames of the film, all have a dark lower 1/4. Why is a mystery. Again this frame went clear.</span><br />
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Thirdly the self timer switch on the leaf shuttered lens got engaged without me noticing. Once I thought I had the shot in the bag (the mirror swinging up makes a loud kaaawhuump) and I started to walk away I heard the dreadful sound of the timer clockwork. I rushed back and reframed blind (the mirror was still up of course, obscuring the view, so why am I looking into the viewfinder?). And better framing than this is difficult even with finder. Missed the focus by a foot though. So now my reflection is more in focus than I had hoped. Ah well, that´s Sod´s law I suppose.</span></div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">But back to business. This is the older emulsion, and yes there is slightly more grain, but still very good for a 400 speed film. Tonality is good. Due to the problems with exposing this film, the example frame is not the best.</span></div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
Again, Caffenol-C-H(RS), this time with 1.2g/l KBr. All else equal.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/7551645718_173e642147_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/7551645718_173e642147_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Tri-X, box speed, Caffenol-C-H(RS), 14m30s @ 20C. Kowa Super 66 w/150mm f3.5</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Caffenol-C-H vs C-H(RS)</span></div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
In a 1 liter solution, each:</div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
Sodium Carbonate, anhydrous 54g - 40g</div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
Ascorbic acid 16g - 16g</div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
Instant coffee 40g - 40g</div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
Potassium Bromide (KBr) whatever, same for both. Between 0.6 and 1.5g/l depending on emulsion.</div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
As you can see, only the amount of soda (sodium carbonate) is reduced. This lowers the pH, makes the developer less active. My experience says it´s still active enough. I haven´t really adapted my times much.</div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
Benefits over regular C-H (same applies for C-M(RS) over C-M). I find grain is slightly less pronounced, and the tonal gradation is smoother, slightly less contrast maybe. </div>
<div id="yui_3_5_1_3_1346960993421_2218" style="line-height: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
With regards to the two Tri-X versions. Both are perfectly good films. I´ve already ordered a couple of bricks of modern Tri-X. ;)</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-9150023600536769732012-08-30T14:25:00.001-07:002012-11-04T23:49:19.172-08:00Lucy the hybrid 120 roll film adapterI´ve been having way too much fun with the 600SE converted 110A. With two CB-103 pack film backs I am equipped for any Polaroid occasion. One loaded with FP100C, the other with FP100B or 3000B. I like it so much I thought I would convert a 120 rollfilm back to mount on the camera too. Who would have thought it, the 110A a system camera?<br />
<br />
The two main parts needed is of course a roll film back. I chose the Graflex 23 6x9 for its size, the Mamiya type backs may be better, but they would obscure the viewfinder. And you also need the mounting plate for a 600SE. On one of my CB-103 backs I measured the distance from the mount face as it meets the camera, and the film plane (I inserted a used film pack) and measured the corresponding distance with the Graflex taped to the mounting plate. 3,2mm needed shaving off somewhere. It can´t be done on the Graflex, there isn´t enough material to grind off. So I took a Dremel to the mounting plate and after a couple of hours had ground out enough for the Graflex to fit.<br />
<br />
I then made a skirt and glued it to the Graflex in order to mate it to the mount. Painted black and applied light sealant before screwing the two halves together.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIwTT4AzRpO4VJq2J9SgSja1AUmSVdvwu4LQohi7LyZeSxRf64TkDTGW9MJW1SZ-zMGSh0yfR92s3Ox60j-MDZyejsW65_td_mGvJu5mqw8_xPHdNSWjwf72qGvpZKX5mRHJ4irzLjRU/s1600/D3C_4302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIwTT4AzRpO4VJq2J9SgSja1AUmSVdvwu4LQohi7LyZeSxRf64TkDTGW9MJW1SZ-zMGSh0yfR92s3Ox60j-MDZyejsW65_td_mGvJu5mqw8_xPHdNSWjwf72qGvpZKX5mRHJ4irzLjRU/s320/D3C_4302.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The parts, some tools and a cup of Livanto Lungo. Skirt seen to lower right. <br />
It fits around the edge of the Graflex, glued 3.2mm from the face it<br />
forms a lip enabling mounting to the adapter plate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAk0_lhSekFqUuWIxnCcRrztBgTo6ou4teWISAysthzDZuo10dk3WTn-mnxuMRWeZR3rmGu5m7543grgTro3hzAMUu99alK6_FqS-xqq2kkBP2ExeVWoHtwFrmdykye2CJziGAIUgI50/s1600/D3C_4304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAk0_lhSekFqUuWIxnCcRrztBgTo6ou4teWISAysthzDZuo10dk3WTn-mnxuMRWeZR3rmGu5m7543grgTro3hzAMUu99alK6_FqS-xqq2kkBP2ExeVWoHtwFrmdykye2CJziGAIUgI50/s320/D3C_4304.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 600SE mounting plate, or adapter. 3.2mm has been ground out<br />
from the right edge and just beyond the left edge of the light opening. Width<br />
as for the Graflex back, not much more than the breadth of the opening top to bottom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQFLBkdYb2oURL8thIJcOjeBvNDHB2KgTlqHr4oDw8hyphenhyphenkLfi_PlFLT2ZxTK7Grdb5fl4P8jUeZK1zoJBwWe2j31PMhIbMkH6IVlH7ULvViICOiiQHWlr_ajI64BNBxsS6eoIh-nuXynW8/s1600/D3C_4311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQFLBkdYb2oURL8thIJcOjeBvNDHB2KgTlqHr4oDw8hyphenhyphenkLfi_PlFLT2ZxTK7Grdb5fl4P8jUeZK1zoJBwWe2j31PMhIbMkH6IVlH7ULvViICOiiQHWlr_ajI64BNBxsS6eoIh-nuXynW8/s320/D3C_4311.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lip glued to the Graflex, allowing the back to fit into the depression<br />
in the mounting plate. Then screwed to the mount. Flocked all round.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNqoUKRF5pR_JF7JwWrvfnfk6ZDYWTAsZ0KQA-a7HvN_4nKOAscbVs8fHALnoT4KSQiZgNsh4QnS4jYfbDLQ3dZZl0zDypNw5OrypouczEzU9TZwelqmhOKDyrPX5ccV5dpNdnGgfFa0/s1600/D3C_4316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNqoUKRF5pR_JF7JwWrvfnfk6ZDYWTAsZ0KQA-a7HvN_4nKOAscbVs8fHALnoT4KSQiZgNsh4QnS4jYfbDLQ3dZZl0zDypNw5OrypouczEzU9TZwelqmhOKDyrPX5ccV5dpNdnGgfFa0/s320/D3C_4316.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As seen from the mount face</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZ9QRmezLgczYRDdQhwqN7qx0enqU7T_tebRmeNImHc1fFqBEr9j0NVR_Tk7AdXKQKjJr9luQd9T9Tty62ByyggXnkdddcB4wyfkFRJ_ERdPqk4YCLvibRV_BsyrmwoSFtdsOczJ-NRE/s1600/D3C_4317+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZ9QRmezLgczYRDdQhwqN7qx0enqU7T_tebRmeNImHc1fFqBEr9j0NVR_Tk7AdXKQKjJr9luQd9T9Tty62ByyggXnkdddcB4wyfkFRJ_ERdPqk4YCLvibRV_BsyrmwoSFtdsOczJ-NRE/s320/D3C_4317+(1).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mounted on the 110A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Edit: It works! From the first roll through the back. Another first (will make a separate post regarding the film used), Portra BW400CN in Caffenol-C-H (RS)<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl8WvRS74thHqjNyQ1EFAHjcj7wDOo-IVtLGCGP2Vk8EsVinQwJ_9ipSChugmG7wzIYcyGOoiGeo7SnFB_7aYryYo-kGt03iW46Yw6rJAQWocdjqA2yLzpDCJDF_OGjjaMTBgJkj6GJlk/s1600/BW400CN-CCH-20120830001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl8WvRS74thHqjNyQ1EFAHjcj7wDOo-IVtLGCGP2Vk8EsVinQwJ_9ipSChugmG7wzIYcyGOoiGeo7SnFB_7aYryYo-kGt03iW46Yw6rJAQWocdjqA2yLzpDCJDF_OGjjaMTBgJkj6GJlk/s320/BW400CN-CCH-20120830001.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaroid 110A/600SE, Portra BW400CN, Caffenol-C-H</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-48844983193549843872012-06-06T00:16:00.001-07:002013-01-31T06:02:08.811-08:00Polaroid Pathfinder 110A brought back to lifeA friend sent me an old 110A, believing I could revive it to actually taking pictures again. I pondered on many 4x5 conversion solutions, ending up looking long and good at Noah Schwartz´low profile back, very slick. However, after browsing Nate's (Option8 fame) creations on flickr and <a href="http://polaroidconversions.com/">polaroidconversions.com</a>, I ended up taking an easier route, grafting a Polaroid 600SE back adapter to the 110A, making it almost as versatile as anything with a Graflok back, only slightly smaller <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" title="Wink" /> Can now mount just about anything up to 6x9 in 120/220 with the right adapter, not to mention Polaroid backs (like the CB103 pack film back on her now), and even 4x5 (though not covering the frame completely).<br />
<br />
The hardest part was manufacturing the adapter plate. I made one that both functions as a mount for the adapter, but is also the side wall of the camera (where the end has been chopped off). The film plane has as a result of the plate and the 600SE adapter been moved back an inch or so, so the end stop for the lens has been moved back correspondingly.<br />
<br />
The camera was a bit worse for wear, so she´s been given a good going over. The Ysarex in Compur #0 shutter was a bit gummed up, so exchanged for a Tominon in Copal #1 press shutter. Needed to widen the mount for that. I recovered her in Cameraleather green composite leather (comes in sheets). The top cover has been chopped too, filled, sanded and painted cream. I think she looks quite nice.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7337987694_830002d081_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="213" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7337987694_830002d081_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaroid 110A w/600SE back adapter - front view Tominon 127mm f4.7 in Copal press shutter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7337985052_dc55eede71_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="213" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7337985052_dc55eede71_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaroid 110A w/600SE back adapter - front view Tominon 127mm f4.7 in Copal press shutter<br />
You can see the end of the camera has been chopped</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/7337982876_4590d5f70f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="213" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/7337982876_4590d5f70f_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaroid 110A w/600SE back adapter - rear view with CB103 back attached</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7232/7337980808_3affdde28b_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="213" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7232/7337980808_3affdde28b_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaroid 110A w/600SE back adapter - rear view with CB103 back attached</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7224/7337978604_0bfe39765f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="213" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7224/7337978604_0bfe39765f_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polaroid 110A w/600SE back adapter - rear view 600SE adapter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Tools used? A Dremel with both cutting disks, and grinding heads comes in handy, set of small screwdrivers, emery cloth and sanding paper (120, 240, 600 and 1200 grit), drill and drill bits, pliers, hack-saw and scissors.<br />
<br />
Materials and parts? 110A of course, Polaroid 600SE adapter, CB103 back, (in my case a Tominon in Copal shutter due to iffy shutter on the Rodenstock Ysaron), 1.5mm sheet aluminium (for adapter plate), Cameraleather.com Composite leather covering, paint (cream semi gloss and flat black), Epoxy glues and filler, Sugru, Light sealing material and 3mm machine screws<br />
<br />
2012-07-02 UPDATE: <br />
<br />
And work it does: <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7349589272_59e9c1d84a_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" sca="true" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7349589272_59e9c1d84a_b.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucy the 110A/600SE Hybrid - Fuji FP 3000B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7264/7489393652_de6e0f775a_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" sca="true" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7264/7489393652_de6e0f775a_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucy the 110A/600SE Hybrid - Fuji FP 100B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-62905900942352502312012-05-21T13:40:00.000-07:002012-05-21T14:30:40.230-07:00PolyPan F and C-C-MLuck would have it that I was given 10 or so rolls of 135 PolyPan F (evidently an Ilford cine film, 50 ASA with little or no anti-halation layer). Using input from fellow Caffenol experimenters on Apug and Flickr I went ahead and exposed two rolls at ISO 100, and developed in straight Caffenol-C-M, for 16 minutes at 20C. One roll agitated as usual (12 inversions first minute, 3 every top of the minute thereafter), the other agitated as usual until the 12th minute, then let stand.<br />
<br />
Can't say I could see any difference between the two. Both were a tad over-developed. And rather grainy too. Though nothing to have a nervous breakdown over. Notice the halo effect around strong light sources, due to the lack of anti-halation layer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7154096468_9d43e7e721_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" kba="true" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7154096468_9d43e7e721_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PolyPanF, EI100, Caffenol-C-M, 16minutes, Leica M4-2 and VC Ultron 28 f1.9</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/6916129652_0320f02297_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" kba="true" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/6916129652_0320f02297_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PolyPanF, EI100, Caffenol-C-M, 16minutes, Leica M4-2 and VC Ultron 28 f1.9</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5457/7062214185_bcac2a0d46_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" kba="true" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5457/7062214185_bcac2a0d46_b.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PolyPanF, EI100, Caffenol-C-M, 16minutes, Leica M4-2 and VC Ultron 28 f1.9</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5346/7062211927_8db1222296_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" kba="true" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5346/7062211927_8db1222296_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PolyPanF, EI100, Caffenol-C-M, 16minutes, Leica M4-2 and VC Ultron 28 f1.9</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5080/7062209007_f9c18ee6e1_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" kba="true" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5080/7062209007_f9c18ee6e1_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PolyPanF, EI 100, Caffenol-C-M, 16minutes, Leica M4-2 and VC Ultron 28 f1.9</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I think this film has potential. These examples were rather strong in contrast, and needed a bit of work in post processing after scanning. Others have had better luck than I. Probably because they haven't pushed the film. Evidently it doesn't take to well to pushing. Next rolls will be exposed at EI 50 and developed for maybe 12 minutes. Or maybe 14 minutes, and semi-stand (agitate as normal until 8 minutes or so, then let stand - might need a spot of KBr for that - avoid streaking). We'll see.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-10084830227153982702012-02-05T10:18:00.000-08:002012-02-05T10:18:32.806-08:00Polaroids - yes instant filmI´ve recently started trying out instant pack film. Though Polaroid no longer make film, others do. Fuji make pack film for 4x5 and the 100 type film (3 1/4" x 4 1/4"). The Impossible project make another variant of films for the 600 type cameras including the SX-70 family and for Polaroid backs (for a number of MF cameras - the 600/600SE pro cameras amongst others).<br />
<br />
I blame Michael Raso at the <a href="http://www.Filmphotographyproject.com/" target="_blank">Filmphotographyproject.com</a> for this, its his fault and his alone ;-) He´s an advocate for all things Polaroid. Making a long story short I got hold of a Land Camera 250 in original case with #268 M3 bulb flash and portrait lens kit. I first converted the camera to use 3xLR03/AAA batteries instead of the arcane #531 4.5V battery. I then removed the #268 flash from its mount and screwed on a hot shoe with PC sync chord. I can now use the kit with any electronic flash I choose. So far I´ve used the Sunpak 1600M, but due to limited output I will be trying out an SB26 instead. What about M vs X sync you say? And you would be right. The X sync flash should have finished it´s cycle when the M sync shutter opens making the flash redundant, but for some reason or another it works.<br />
<br />
This is what the camera looks like:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6777271575_cbee75ddca_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6777271575_cbee75ddca_b.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Sunpak 1600M</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/6732846331_d255a7eedc_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/6732846331_d255a7eedc_b.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With case and accessories</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
It´s winter and for the most part not much daylight. So Fuji´s FP3000B B+W film has been put through its paces. At 3000 ASA, it can be used both indoors and out handheld, without flash (at least that´s what the ads say) - even if the Land Camera 250 (and all its automatic brethren) has a max aperture of f8.8). Indeed it does work outdoors in rather poor light, indoors however I´ve been using flash.<br />
<br />
Indoors, with portrait kit and Sunpak 1600M<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6777093785_66e23c8065_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6777093785_66e23c8065_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 TLRs shot with Land Camera 250, FP3000B, Sunpak Flash</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Outdoors in overcast low light, adjusted camera to +1 (lighten) exposure<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6790778513_13fb52634d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6790778513_13fb52634d_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land Camera 250, FP3000B +1EV</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
This is fun, lots of fun. Its immediate, yet old school. I´ve ordered more film, including a few cases of FB100C 100ASA colour film.<br />
<br />
Background for those unfamiliar with Polaroid pack film Land Cameras, and instant pack film:<br />
<br />
The Land cameras are named after their inventor, the Polaroid mastermind Edwin Land. Read up about him, he was a brilliant mind, and one of Steve Jobs´greatest inspirations. He invented not only polarising glass, and founded the Polaroid company, at one time a massive company in any right. He also invented instant film photography. Pack film applies a method where a negative and positive are co-developed. After exposing a frame one pulls the pair out of the camera through a set of rollers which squeezes chemicals out of a sachet and in between the negative and print (positive) and development starts. Wait for a number of seconds and peel the print from the negative and you have a ready image. Its as easy as that. The negative can in some cases (some films) be kept and used for scanning. And others even for regular enlargement printing. The FP3000B B+W negative can be scanned as a negative reflective media, and then inverted in post processing. The TLR picture above is such a scan.<br />
<br />
With regards to technical quality Polaroids do not exactly make claim to the top spot. But that is besides the point. Its immediacy is its party trick. I indeed intend to use it a parties and give away the prints, keeping the negatives for scanning.<br />
<br />
Good Polaroid film resources: <a href="http://www.Filmphotographyproject.com/" target="_blank">Filmphotographyproject.com</a> , <a href="http://www.rwhirled.com/landlist/landhome.htm" target="_blank">The land list</a> , <a href="http://polaroids.theskeltons.org/" target="_blank">Jim´s Polaroid Camera Collection</a> , <a href="http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/professional_photography/film/fujifilm_instant_films/index.html" target="_blank">Fuji Film</a> (note that Instax films are not traditional Polaroid type, but another instant technology) and <a href="http://www.the-impossible-project.com/ourfilm/" target="_blank">The Impossible Project films</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-57688942306327314062011-11-06T12:07:00.000-08:002012-07-03T06:43:39.459-07:00Some catching up to doSummer has been about all things not Caffenol, or anything DIY at all. Not had the time nor energy to do much testing. Though a few films have been given the once over.<br />
<br />
Those that met with success are:<br />
<br />
In 135:<br />
Efke KB100,<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px;">EI200 in Caffenol-C-M (RS), 14 min @ 20C</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6143703051_a91b4c0456_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6143703051_a91b4c0456_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Leica M4-2, Voigtländer Ultron 28 f1.9, Efke KB100, Caffenol-C-M (RS)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6208/6103975208_42621a7432_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6208/6103975208_42621a7432_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Leica M4-2, Voigtländer Ultron 28 f1.9, Efke KB100, Caffenol-C-M (RS)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px;">ERA100 @ EI100, Caffenol-C-M,13:30min @ 20C</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6125/5961944441_d3050c2371_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6125/5961944441_d3050c2371_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Royal 35-M, ERA 100, Caffenol-C-M</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6144/5962497348_042f38d62e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6144/5962497348_042f38d62e_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Royal 35-M, ERA 100, Caffenol-C-M</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px;">Agfa APX 400, Caffenol-C-H, 13min @ 20C</span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6318158394_6290ce531d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6318158394_6290ce531d_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; line-height: 15px;">Leica M4-2, VC Ultron 28mm/f1.9. APX 400, Caffenol-C-H</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
In 120:<br />
<br />
Fuji Neopan 400 @ EI400, Caffenol-C-L semistand, 60min @ 20C. Forgot to add bromide, and yet the negatives came out without streaks and the base fog was well under control. Strange.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6012/5939193899_417558d78f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6012/5939193899_417558d78f_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Kalloflex K2, Neopan 400, Caffenol-C-L</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/5939748100_fcc66a70c8_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/5939748100_fcc66a70c8_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Kalloflex K2, Neopan 400, Caffenol-C-L</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Ilford Delta 400 @ EI800, Caffenol-C-L, 5min presoak, 60min semistand @ 20C<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6002/5930997289_43ea74f5a3_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6002/5930997289_43ea74f5a3_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Kalloflex K2, Delta 400, Caffenol-C-L</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Lately had a couple of mishaps with Caffenol-C-L. I think I know why. Storing ready mixed solutions for a long time may work with the more concentrated versions, but not for C-L. There you need freshly made solutions, the tolerances are much lower, and any oxidisation or depletion of the substances will have a big effect on the result. C-M/H versions are much more robust to variations in pH.</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-50798833946165813372011-07-06T04:22:00.000-07:002011-11-06T11:31:43.068-08:00Caffenol-C-L and TMX 135<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have not done much 135 film since I started using film again. Used to large negatives and the lovely results this gives you, I thought I'd try to give the smaller format a fighting chance to prove itself against its bigger brother. For that I brought out low pH Caffenol, the C-L version championed by Reinhold over on the Caffenol.blogspot.com</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As before, C-C-L mixed by the book:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">16g/l Sodium carbonate</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">10g/l Ascorbic acid</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">40g/l Instant coffee</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1.25g/l Potassium Bromide</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5 minute tempered presoak. Semi stand @20C for 70 minutes. 12 inversions initially, 2 inversions at the 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 minute markers. Let stand for the duration.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictures taken from a test roll through the Royal 35-M, EI100 - no filter.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5312/5893644186_88d32d0b58_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" m$="true" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5312/5893644186_88d32d0b58_b.jpg" width="213" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drammen Docks, Norway, Royal 35-M, TMX, EI100, C-C-L</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5073/5893635598_80ca84d0f9_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="213" m$="true" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5073/5893635598_80ca84d0f9_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drammen Docks, Norway, Royal 35-M, TMX, EI100, C-C-L</span></td></tr>
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</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6032/5893635200_6178f2bd7b_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="213" m$="true" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6032/5893635200_6178f2bd7b_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Near Drammen Docks, Norway, Royal 35-M, TMX, EI100, C-C-L</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the results? Quite pleased really. The grain certainly is quite fine, the tones are nice and subtle. Any deficiency in the quality of the pictures is most likely due to my rather puny scanner as much as anything else.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-88333586587440255392011-06-21T12:34:00.001-07:002011-07-06T04:52:29.305-07:00Caffenol-C-L - low pH semi standI´ve not tried Reinhold´s stand version of Caffenol yet. I´m probably not patient enough to wait for an hour or more for the film to develop, especially since my results with normal agitated development has been quite successful. So far, so good. However a new (old) film has dropped into my life requiring investigation. A fellow Caffenol experimenter has donated a number of films to me, and next on my list is the now discontinued Rollei Retro 400 (a.k.a. Agfa APX 400). I´ve read previously that this film is both grainy (in most developers) and quite difficult to get good results in Caffenol. If there ever was an opportunity to try out the advantages of the low pH version, often used for slower films like PanF, Adox 25, Efke 25 etc, I couldn´t think of one. The advertised pros being smaller grain, better tonal range, as in better control over the highlights, better shadow detail, smooth tonal gradation (the list goes on).<br />
<br />
Not that these qualities will be unequivocally confirmed once I´ve developed the film, since I´ve not a baseline to which I can compare the results to, the film being new to me. Not to worry, if it comes out OK, it comes out OK.<br />
<br />
I read up on different 400 ASA films in Caffenol-C-L. As with other developers they tend to favour slightly shorter development times than ASA 100 films. After a bit of thought I decided to expose at box speed, and develop semi stand for 60 minutes @ 20C.<br />
<br />
However, it was a warm evening, and the temperature of the mix slowly rose to 21C before the time was up, so I cut the development short at 56min. The C-L mix is a low pH version with decidedly lower concentrations of both sodium carbonate and vitamin-C (ascorbic acid):<br />
<br />
Sodium carbonate: 16g/l (8.6g for a 600ml mix)<br />
Ascorbic acid: 10g/l (6g for a 600ml mix)<br />
Instant coffee: 40g/l (24g for a 600ml mix)<br />
Potassium bromide: 1.2g/l (720mg for a 600ml mix)<br />
<br />
You need a restrainer regardless of film when doing stand or semi stand development, or you will get fog. The amount varies according to film and length of development. I guessed and added 1.2g/l potassium bromide.<br />
<br />
Semi stand developed, in this case agitated 12 times initially, then three agitations at minutes 2, 4, 8, 15 and 30. Then let stand for the remaining 30 minutes (or 26 as it turned out).<br />
<br />
Did the negatives turn out OK? Surprisingly, yes.<br />
<br />
Three of the better shots to prove it:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3386/5850026428_5397bd2b01_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="319" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3386/5850026428_5397bd2b01_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kalloflex K2, Rollei Retro 400, EI 400, Caffenol-C-L, semi-stand, somewhere in Norway</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3179/5849473999_fbd3c5577d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3179/5849473999_fbd3c5577d_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kalloflex K2, Rollei Retro 400, EI 400, Caffenol-C-L, semi-stand, Old Skoger Church, Norway</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5271/5848298840_7d16f01760_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5271/5848298840_7d16f01760_b.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kalloflex K2, Rollei Retro 400, EI 400, Caffenol-C-L, semi-stand, Drammen, Norway</td></tr>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-23203360536531979952011-06-09T09:56:00.000-07:002011-06-09T10:02:16.566-07:00More on Reduced Sodium Carbonate C-MA note: The idea of a reducing the pH of Caffenol-C-M and H is not new. Some claim ownership to the idea, I find that rather pretentious, its not as if one mind and one mind only can come up with such an idea. Caffenol is all about experimenting after all. Not to mention that there are many shades of grey in such a matter, exactly how much one should reduce the pH to gain best results is a matter of taste. For the avoidance of doubt I hacked out my recipe in cooperation with Mike Overs (flickrID: mikeinlagardette). I´ve decided to call it Caffenol-C-M (RS), as it is still based on Reinhold´s (caffenol.blogspotcom) recipe, the honour is his. Mike himself uses a version with even lower levels of sodium carbonate, which I very well might have a go at myself at a later date.<br />
<br />
My first two films to be developed in a reduced sodium carbonate version of Caffenol-C-H or M were HP5+ and GP3. Both came out very nicely, and showed some of the qualities I´ve been looking for ever since I found out I had in fact developed a film in a low pH Caffenol (by accident) early on in my experiments. The main quality I´m looking for is smoother gradation of the middle and lighter tones. The aforementioned films are very nice, but are as yet not my primary films of choice.<br />
<br />
Acros and TMX have been my mainstays since the beginning, and I still prefer them to most other films I´ve tried. I thought I´d share a few examples of both films taken over the last month or so:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5770785117_bd83a143d4_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5770785117_bd83a143d4_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;">Rolleiflex 2.8E3, Acros (120) , EI 100, Caffenol-C-M (RS) 11:30min @ 20C</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5771562774_9f908c709e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5771562774_9f908c709e_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;">Pentax SP1000, Takumar SMC 50/f1.4, TMX (135) in Caffenol-C-M (RS), 13min @ 20C</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/5754038434_a9632320a3_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/5754038434_a9632320a3_b.jpg" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;">Rolleiflex 2.8E3, Acros (120), EI 100, Caffenol-C-M (RS) 11:30min @ 20C</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3562/5712732471_4315c68a52_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3562/5712732471_4315c68a52_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;">Rolleiflex 2.8E3, TMX( 120), EI 100, Caffenol-C-M (RS) 14min @ 20C</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5791481818_d0277e0158_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5791481818_d0277e0158_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Flexaret Va, TMX (120), EI 100, Caffenol-C-M (RS) 14min @ 20C</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5063/5771027765_cc39478593_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5063/5771027765_cc39478593_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;">Pentax SP1000, Takumar SMC 50/f1.4, TMX (135) in Caffenol-C-M (RS), 13min @ 20C</span></td></tr>
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</div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-76464294820998739022011-05-05T13:33:00.000-07:002013-01-31T08:29:28.947-08:00I Adore, the 6x17 camera<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/5690402482_e0e02700f5_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/5690402482_e0e02700f5_b.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "I Adore" front (notice the sliding back door cover protruding from the side handle)</td></tr>
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<br />
When I built my first DIY camera I started the project with the intention of building a 6x17. Somewhere down the road I convinced myself that building a multi format camera would be a better idea. Sooner or later I had to rectify this misconception. Don´t get me wrong, I loved building the 4x5/6x12 P+S, but I have to try out 6x17 one way or the other. The idea resurfaced one evening when looking at two bottles of Cognac in their wooden cases. The cases looked to be a good starting points for a panoramic camera. There had be some rather peculiar design points. For one the back has to have to slide into place, meaning the pressure plate has to have to be detached from the back. I had to make a light box/mask that can be removed in order to gain access to the film spools (tight fit). I´ve scrounged parts from an old Genos Rapid, the film rollers, the film tensioners, the red film counter window, the winder knob and so on. I've used the same lens and helical (mounted on a Linhof lens board) as for the P+S. Getting the thing light tight was the main challenge, but hey - thats half the fun. Luckily an acquaintance of mine has sent me 10 rolls of expired film I can play around with for testing purposes.<br />
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The A E Dor ( I Adore ) case was the better of the two and formed the basis for the light tight chamber. I chamfered the front corners and crafted two hardwood handles for the side walls, one of which has a slit to accept the sliding rear door. I clad front, top and bottom in oak. I made a combined chambre noir and film gate, removable in order to gain access to the film spool holders (very tight fit), the pressure plate can't be attached to the rear door, so is also removable. Not much to it really.<br />
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Some more pictures:<br />
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<a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5689827683_2c4dafa47c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5689827683_2c4dafa47c_b.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5142/5689826833_3996e89c5a_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5142/5689826833_3996e89c5a_b.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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And the first test picture. Forgive the scanning artifacts, I don't have a film holder for 6x17 negs, so it was scanned straight of the glass.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5145/5688946477_8ef2fcec7b_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="178" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5145/5688946477_8ef2fcec7b_b.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sande bay, Norway, "I Adore" 6x17, HP5+, EI 400, Caffenol-C-H (RSA) 13min @ 20C, 4min presoak</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-44878621846753858992011-04-27T04:21:00.000-07:002011-04-27T04:47:23.045-07:00Two new experiences in one: Shanghai GP3 and Caffenol-C-M (RS)Inspired by my fellow Caffenol advocates on flickr, imagesfrugales (Reinhold) and mikeinlagardette (Mike), I had to try out som cheap (and cheerful?) Chinese film. Also wanted to try out a new version of Reinhold's C-C-M with Reduced Sodium content (RS). I exposed the film to EI 100, but had a yellow filter mounted, so in reality the EI is closer to 160-200. I mixed the modified C-C-M solution with 3/4 of the amount of sodium carbonate and developed without adjusting either my agitations scheme or my timings. I agitate for 1 minute initially (approx 12-15 inversions), then 3 inversions every minute. In this case I developed for 13min, but since the mixture had been used once already, this equates to about 12min for fresh Caffenol. I did however add a 4 minute 20C tap-water presoak to the process.<br />
<br />
The revised recipe is:<br />
Sodium carbonate: 40g/l (down from 54g/l)<br />
Ascorbice acid: 16g/l<br />
Instant coffee (gut rot type): 40g/l<br />
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And the results are more than pleasing. Both the technical qualities of the film (medium fine grain, classic grain structure is nice, tonal range and graduation is good, but not brilliant, and high contrasting areas are handled very well) and the developer work very well indeed. The Caffenol-C-M (RS) solution seems to be no less active than the regular sort. I need to scan a roll of TMX also developed in the (RS) version, and compare this to earlier C-M developed rolls to be sure, but I hope to see smoother midtones and maybe finer grain. <br />
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The results:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5028/5659148822_86eab1beb7_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" j8="true" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5028/5659148822_86eab1beb7_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Flexaret Va, Shanghai GP3, EI 160, Caffenol-C-M(RS), Studenten, now housing the Hard Rock Cafe, Oslo, Norway</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5658572437_4bd508d3ff_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" j8="true" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5658572437_4bd508d3ff_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Shanghai GP3, EI 160, Caffenol-C-M(RS), Grand Hotel, Oslo, Norway</div></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-5201715788610194852011-04-12T10:06:00.000-07:002011-04-12T10:06:54.070-07:00Really, really mature CaffenolI´ve not had the opportunity to develop any films these last two months. As a result I have a litre or more of each of the main components maturing in my cellar. They are now more than 4 months old. How will they perform? I finished off a roll of Acros exposed at EI 100, to find out. The first two frames were from my recent visit to Canada, the others not so important - shot in and around my home town. I could live through a dud development if that were to be the case.<br />
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When mixing the solutions together, the sodium carbonate and the ascorbic acid first, produced a dark brown colour, very unlike when fresh (light yellowish green), and the coffee being a milky brown (most likely starting to develop mold). Didn´t look at all promising. The only positive change was that when all mixed together the distinctive Caffenol smell was all but absent. Oh well, no guts, no glory. I developed the film as normal, no adjustments. Out of the fix it looked not too bad. Out of the wash even better, and when dried more or less as normal.<br />
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When scanned I found that one of the rollers or the possibly film gate, on my camera is scratched, ruining several of the negatives. But on a positive note the negatives didn´t look too bad. If I were to be very picky I´d say they are a tad (1/3-1/2 stop) underdeveloped, and they exhibit more grain than usual, though still quite useable.<br />
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Here are three scans that could be salvaged from the scratched roll:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5221/5612744577_2e3405f8df_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5221/5612744577_2e3405f8df_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros, EI100, Matured Caffenol-C-M, 12min@20C, Sande river, Norway</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5065/5612744555_66ba470118_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5065/5612744555_66ba470118_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros, EI100, Matured Caffenol-C-M, 12min@20C, Kicking Horse, BC</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5270/5612744549_e50300e5ff_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5270/5612744549_e50300e5ff_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros, EI100, Matured Caffenol-C-M, 12min@20C, Sande, Norway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-26550491281426211192011-03-16T11:38:00.000-07:002011-03-16T11:40:45.525-07:00More on re-using Caffenol<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Its been a while since the last post. I´ve been busy on other fronts, building a 6x17 camera out of a Cognac case for one thing. More on that later.<br />
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When it comes to Caffenol and using a batch for more than one 120 film. I´ve tried that out with success already. I´ve now done it again, this time three films in succession, all from the same 530ml mix, and this time not adding any instant coffee, just adjusting to the development times somewhat. I´ve not yet scanned the first film (not that relevant to the subject of re-using Caffenol really), but I have scanned both films two and three. How did they come out? Perfectly OK in fact. I wouldn´t say that I could see any detrimental effects of using the batch for three 120 films at all. In the case of 135 films, a single batch of 530ml could be used for up to 6 rolls if need be. The reason for doing this is not that one would save money, or the environment for that matter, but time. Time is a much more important commodity.<br />
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Adding 5-10% development time for Caffenol-C-M has been suggested as a place to start. I opted to add a minute for each successive film, even if the films were different and required different development times to begin with. For Acros (normally 12 minutes) 1 minute added would equate to nearly 10%, whereas a minute for TMX (normally 14-18 minutes) would equate to 6-7%. To be honest I think that both films are rather tolerant of variations in the mix and timings, that it doesn´t matter much. Don´t quote me on that though, YMMV.<br />
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From film no. 2 (TMX, EI 100, @ 16+1 minutes):<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5529827843_713b92f983_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="319" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5529827843_713b92f983_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, TMX, EI 100, in re-used Caffenol-C-M, @ 16+1min</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5180/5530413994_826ed30126_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5180/5530413994_826ed30126_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, TMX, EI 100, in re-used Caffenol-C-M, @ 16+1min</td></tr>
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From film no. 3 (Acros 100, EI 100, @ 12+2 minutes):<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5529829397_4b564aa8b6_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="319" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5529829397_4b564aa8b6_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ikonta w/Novar f4.5, Acros EI 100 in re-re-used Caffenol-C-M @ 12+2min</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5529830753_0a06607dd2_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5529830753_0a06607dd2_b.jpg" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ikonta w/Novar f4.5, Acros EI 100 in re-re-used Caffenol-C-M @ 12+2min</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-86114062513634767562011-01-28T05:44:00.000-08:002011-01-28T05:44:05.431-08:00Acros 100 Re-used Caffenol-C-M and night photography<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Acros 100 saves time when doing night photography. Why? Because it has practically no reciprocity at all. For shots up to several minutes in length you can shoot as metered. See examples below.</div><br />
Secondly, I´ve tried re-using Caffenol-C-M. I processed one 120 Acros 100 roll, and once out of the tank I developed yet another roll in the same soup. Caffenol is reputed to be one shot, however the active agents would seem not to be spent after just one film after all. Its not as if I couldn´t be bothered to mix another batch, I just wanted to try it out. Reinhold at the Caffenol.blogspot has met with success re-using Caffenol, and he´s the master of all things Caffenol, so why not? I added a teaspoon (5ml) of instant coffee to the mix, just in case and added a minute to the development, and adjusted nothing else. And hey presto, the negatives came out just as good as the first roll through the same mix. Same contrast levels, any differences could be attributed to variations in exposure as much as anything else.<br />
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I might continue doing this in future. Saves both time and effort.<br />
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The first three night shots. The last midday fog.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5395340224_2a0571ec15_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5395340224_2a0571ec15_b.jpg" width="309" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros 100, EI 200, 2 min metered and exposed, 13 min in Caffenol-C-M reused</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5394744189_447d57c54f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5394744189_447d57c54f_b.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros 100, 20 min exposure, pure guess metering, 13 min in Caffenol-C-M reused</td></tr>
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<a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5395340918_5f2e3c0289_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5395340918_5f2e3c0289_b.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros 100, EI 200, 2 min metered and exposed, 13 min in Caffenol-C-M reused</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5395341322_0588d55f12_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5395341322_0588d55f12_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flexaret Va, Acros 100, EI 200, 13 min in Caffenol-C-M reused</td></tr>
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</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-60670118988257817622011-01-23T12:33:00.000-08:002011-01-23T12:33:23.739-08:00Acros 100 unintentionally overexposed by not one, not two, but most likely 5 or more stops!My Kowa leaf shuttered 85mm lens developed a shutter issue at the exact same time I started testing Acros 100. At first I thought my very dense negatives were due to my getting the development all wrong, and subsequently went out and shot another roll. The second roll showing the exact same symptoms, even after changing EI from 100 to 200 and shaving 4 minutes of the development time. This is when I started suspecting other things, like my new light meter, and went out and shot another roll with the old meter. Still dense negatives bordering on opaque. I should of course have just studied the film borders and the film base to see if the development was off, or if it indeed was an exposure issue. But I panicked!<br />
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I finally cottoned on to the party to blame, the lens´leaf shutter was sticking, on all speeds. It didn´t really matter which speed was set, the time it took for the shutter to close was at least a couple of seconds, and sometimes it didn´t close at all. I managed to get my flatbed scanner to interpret a few frames out of three rolls of negatives, barely. I suspect that a better scanner would have been able to salvage something from most of them, and that wet printing could get nice results. But alas, I´ve not a $1000 scanner, nor is my darkroom ready yet.<br />
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To wrap up the winging, I´d like to say that I´m impressed with what Acros can tolerate of overexposure. Because these negatives got their fair dose of it. Reinhold rates Acros to an EI of 200 in Caffenol-C-M. These negative probably got exposed in single digit EI´s. The results being big chunky grain in the lighter (most overexposed areas) and still quite nice and fine grain in the darker areas. There´s even some quite nice midtones evident on most of the negatives in question. I now know that not only does Acros push well, it pulls well too. Not that I´d want to pull 5 or more stops out of a fine grained film, at least I know there´s a lot of exposure latitude on hand with this film.<br />
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A couple of examples:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5381993248_3170418d15_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="319" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5381993248_3170418d15_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The two tallest buildings in Oslo. EI 1 to 5, Acros 100, Caffenol-C-M 12min @ 20C</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/3/9/1/4/9/acros100ccm20101230009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/3/9/1/4/9/acros100ccm20101230009.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self portrait. In shadow, so EI probably 5-10 somewhere,Acros 100, Caffenol-C-M 12min @ 20C<br />
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</tbody></table><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In fact I rather like the first picture, the gritty look is becoming and suits the subject material. I´ll be printing this one once I´ve got a darkroom going.</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1732646898276679354.post-7903320782963674882011-01-22T11:31:00.000-08:002011-01-22T11:33:30.751-08:00Acros 100, the long routeI´ve been trying to test Acros 100 for ages now. But for some reason a compound of non-related issues has prevented me from doing so. First my Mac decided to have a disk crash, so scanning any negatives was a no go. Then the camera that I´ve come to rely on felt it needed a hiatus, the shutter giving in. First intermittently, then more or less all the time; ruining three rolls of Acros in the process.<br />
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Finally though I´ve been able to both expose, develop and scan enough Acros negatives for form an opinion. It rocks! Its even more fine grained than TMX, though I think I still might prefer TMX midtones. Its pushes very well, but funnily enough it pulls even better. I know, since the shutter stuck I have a host of negatives overexposed by at least 5 stops, probably more. Boy are they dense, but some are scannable on my lowly Epson V500, resulting in very heavy grained images - but not without some merit. More on that later.<br />
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Acros 100, rated at EI 200 for the most part. Developed in Caffenol-C-M (C-H without the bromide remember) for 12 minutes @ 20C.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5377835885_78d8d8027d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5377835885_78d8d8027d_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acros 100, EI200, C-C-M 12min @ 20C, taken with Flexaret Vb<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5377835887_34459609b3_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5377835887_34459609b3_b.jpg" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acros 100, EI200, C-C-M 12min @ 20C, taken with Flexaret Vb</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5353664853_eb94f5d3a0_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5353664853_eb94f5d3a0_b.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acros 100, EI200, C-C-M 12min @ 20C, taken with Kowa Super 66</td></tr>
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I´ve also tested EI 50-80 and up to 15 minutes @ 20C, and they work just as well. Acros is almost as robust as TMX when it comes to exposure and development latitude.<br />
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